Chasing the 2017 eclipse

On August 21 there will be a total eclipse of the sun in a 60 mile wide path from Oregon to North Carolina. Northwestern Nebraska is in the path, and I intend to meet sister Vanya and daughter Vanya there, along with Big Vanya's friend, Michael, and his sister. Naturally, I plan to travel there by motorcycle - my BMW R1150R.

My departure on Wednesday, August 16 began inauspiciously when the bike wouldn't start. Although the bike has a new battery, it had been sitting for several weeks, so I thought that might be the problem. My Weego portable starter battery wasn't fully charged, but the bike did eventually start and I was off across the Golden Gate bridge and east on Highway 37 to Vallejo. Traffic wasn't bad on I-80 and I went north on I-505 to Winters (about 90 miles from home), where I stopped for gas, only to have the bike refuse to start, although it did eventually. I decided to return home and switch to the Suzuki. When I arrived, I parked and checked the voltage, which was good, although the engine turned over very slowly and the voltage dropped to under 8 volts when the starter was engaged - not good. I called Sean, an independent BMW mechanic who has been looking after the bike, and he said to bring it down to his shop in Redwood City and he'd take a look at it. When I got there and turned off the engine, it started up just fine. He put a voltmeter on the battery and started the bike up about 10 times, and it started right away every time and the voltage never dropped below 10 volts when the starter was engaged, which is about right. He said to have a good trip, and I went to a nearby IHOP restaurant for a late lunch and to ponder what to do. If I returned home and swapped bikes, I would lose an entire day, so I decided to continue with the R and hope for the best. By this time it was 4 PM and traffic was building up. I split lanes through the Central Freeway maze in San Francisco, and part of the Bay Bridge, and again through Berkeley and Richmond. By the time I got to Davis the traffic wasn't that bad, and I had a good ride through Auburn, Truckee, and all the way to Fernley, arriving at 9:30 PM. My motel reservation in Lakeview, OR went to waste. I got the last room at a Super 8 in Fernley (I'd called from a rest area on I-80), and when I arrived I asked the clerk why they were so busy. She replied that they'd been busy all summer - the new Tesla battery factory is under construction nearby, so a lot of the workers stay at the motel and other motels in the area. She also said that Toyota and (I think) Nissan are building facilities in the area. (490 miles)

Thursday, August 17. The breakfast at the Super 8 featured scrambled eggs, but only frozen waffles and not the make them yourself kind. The bike started just fine, and continued to start right away all day, although the starter seems to make more noise than I'm used to. This may be my imagination - yesterday Sean said that it sounded normal. In Winnemucca I exited for gas and turned north on US 95 to the Oregon border, where I stopped at a casino for lunch. The weather was pleasant all morning - 80 to 85 degrees. It would warm to 90 or so later in the day, but for mid-August I can't complain. US 95 in northern Nevada is bleak desert and there is a fair amount of traffic - no other north-south roads nearby. Passing isn't a problem, and the cars and big rigs move right along, but it isn't like US 50. The road becomes slightly more interesting in Oregon with a few hills, some 4500 foot passes, and even a few curves. I stopped in Jordan Valley for gas and soon entered Idaho. In Oregon there were more ranches and even a few farms, and once in Idaho there were more farms and greener landscape. In Murphy, ID I turned south on ID 78, which was a pleasant and mostly deserted ride to ID 67 where I went east to Mountain Home AFB and then to Mountain Home, ID where I'm spending the night at the Hilander Motel. At one time a steakhouse and swimming pool were part of the motel, but both are now defunct. Dinner (a taco salad) at nearby Grinde's Cafe was good, and the place does a lot of drive up ice cream business. For future reference...

 

The 50s era sign for the Hilander is the best part of the motel. That, and the avocado and almond color scheme for the bathroom tile and fixtures. (449 miles)

(August 18, Friday) After a cup of bad coffee at the motel I headed east on US 20, intending to find a cafe on the road. This turned out to be optimistic, as the first place that offered food was a gas station/general store/burger place in Carey, about 100 miles down the road. Still, it was a nice ride over Cat Creek summit (5600 feet) and there was little traffic on the road. I left at 8 and it was 60 degrees, so I wore my heavier gloves and the jacket liner. After breakfast (they still had a breakfast biscuit sandwich at the Exxon station where I stopped) I continues in US 20 and turned off at Craters of the Moon National Monument. I did the quick 7 mile loop and took a picture, but I'd been there before with Andrew so there was no need to explore more thoroughly.

 

After a gas stop in Arco I stayed on 20 to Idaho Falls, where I stopped for lunch, and then rejoined US 26 to Swan Valley, a serene and beautiful vacation and ranch area. Many years ago Andrew and I rode down into Swan Valley from Jackson, and I thought that it was the most lovliest place I'd ever seen.  US 26 continues past the Palisades Reservoir until it hits US 89, where I turned south. There was a lot of traffic, mostly going north towards Jackson, Teton National Park, and Yellowstone, but it moved along at the limit and the R bike has plenty of power for passing. It's a scenic ride with several towns along the way, one of which is Edna, where Freedom Arms is located. If you've read the Joe Pickett novels by C. J. Box, you know that Joe's friend, Nate, carries a Freedom Arms Casul .454 revolver. US 89 goes over Salt River Pass (7600 feet) and then I took WY 89 (also known as highway 61, although the AAA map doesn't show this) and when it ended at US 30 I went east past Fossil Butte to Kemmerer, where I'm staying at the Fairview Motel. This is another one of those places where I wouldn't stay with Carol, but it's good enough for me. Kemmerer is a strange little town with a few rock and fossil shops, a small downtown park, and quite a few empty storefronts. It is also home to the original J. C. Penny store. (442 miles)

 

(Saturday, August 19) The bike thermometer showed 40 degrees when I checked it this morning at 6:30. Kemmerer is at 7000 feet, so that isn't surprising. The motel office didn't have coffee yet, so I walked to the nearby Maverik station and purchased a cup of coffee and an egg, cheese, and English muffin - both were fresh and not bad. It had "warmed" up to almost 60 when I left at 8:45, so I wore my heavy gloves and jacket liner and was comfortable enough. I rode north on US 189 for 25 miles and went east on WY 372 for the same distance and then east on WY 28 over South Pass on the Continental Divide (7500 feet). The road is interesting enough and all but deserted, and the temperature stayed at 60 degrees. Just before 28 ends at US 287 I rode by Red Canyon, which provided a little color to the otherwise beige grass and dusty green sage brush.

 

I decided to ride the 7 miles into Lander to get gas because my GPS showed none available for many miles on 287 east. I also switched to lighter gloves and took off my jacket liner and opened the vents on the jacket. It was 80 degrees, and would warm up another 10 by mid-afternoon. I should have had something to eat as well, because in addition to no gas along my route there were no places to eat. US 287 follows the Mormon Pioneer Trail and after 70 miles I turned on WY 220 towards Casper. There was a fair amount of traffic (by Wyoming standards) heading west on 287, and on 220 there was a fair amount of traffic going east. I'd planned to have a late lunch in Casper, but my GPS directed me on a bypass around the city. I decided to go into Casper anyway, but found that the road I was on was all tire stores, repair shops, and fast food places - rather unattractive. I went north on I-25 for 30 miles to WY 250 which I followed to Midwest where I finally had a pre-wrapped sandwich and coffee at a Big D truck stop, the Tumbleweed Cafe that my GPS showed having been closed for many years. There is a lot of oil production in the area and the small town of Midwest, which is really in the middle of nowhere, consists of a few dozen small bungalows, presumably to house the workers and their families. 

Somewhat refreshed the, next 60 miles on WY 387 were pleasant enough and in Wright I went south on WY 59 for a couple of miles and then east on WY 450 through Thunder Basin National Grassland. Right in the middle is the Black Thunder Coal Company and I saw several mile long coal trains and a huge processing plant that had a couple of hundred automobiles in the parking lot - this on a Saturday. WY 450 ends at US 16 and I went east 4 miles to Newcastle, where I'm spending the night at the Sage Motel. When I called from San Francisco to make the reservation the man at the motel asked, somewhat incredulously, why I was coming to Newcastle, and indeed there's not much here. Dinner at Pizza Barn (a steakhouse as well as pizza and other italian dishes) was OK, and the motel is a cut above my usual accommodations. (498 miles)

 

Although you have to wonder about the motel's clientele if they have to post the sign below.

 

(Sunday, August 20) This was to be a short day (270 miles) so there was no rush to get moving early in the morning. Also, the motel didn't serve breakfast until 8 AM, and after coffee, bagel and an orange I was on the road at 9 AM. While looking at the map the previous night I noticed that my route took me past Jewel Cave National Monument and Wind Cave National Park, and I decided to stop and see what was there. Outside Newcastle US 16 becomes interesting as it climbs into the Black Hills and soon I turned into Jewel Cave. There were few cars on the road, and when I reached the parking area I discovered why - everyone was at Jewel Cave. The tours were booked two hours in advance, so I wandered around the visitor's area for 20 minutes and left. In Custer City I went south on US 385, a scenic road with hills and curves that led me to Wind Cave, where I discovered the same situation that was present at Jewel Cave - full parking area, many families with kids, tours full for the next couple of hours.  

 

The road descended into Hot Springs, SD and I stopped at Mornin' Sunshine on River Street for a real breakfast and coffee, and I asked the lady behind the counter if the Mammoth exhibit just south of town was worth a visit, and she assured me that it was. Again the parking area was full, but this time I waited and bought a ticket to enter the paleontology exhibit, which included an actual digging area as well as skeletons of extinct bears and mammoths. Of course the gift shop was as large as the dig, but I showed restraint and didn't purchase anything.

  

US 385 joined US 18 in Hot Springs, and in Oelrichs I stayed on 18 which goes east through the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation. I stopped in Pine Ridge for gas, and continued on US 18, and since this is a reservation the landscape is bleak and barren. There was about 15 miles of road construction with a few gravel sections, but little traffic, a few small towns, and not much of anything. The landscape gradually turned into the Nebraska Sand Hills and there were more ranches and farms. At Martin I went south on SD 73, which became Nebraska 61 in 10 miles. I rode east on US 20 (also known as Euclid Ave. in Cleveland) to Valentine where I'm spending the night at a Comfort Inn. I did laundry and took a short walk in town - Main St. is about four blocks long - and had dinner at the Buck Horn Restaurant. Unfortunately I forgot about Game of Thrones until Carol mentioned it when I called her, but I did manage to catch the last half hour. I'll watch the whole thing on TIVO when I return home.

(August 21, 2017 - Monday) Well, that was spectacular! 

 

Without a lens filter my little camera doesn't do a good job with the corona flare. Be assured that in real life the full eclipse looked just like the awesome pictures you've seen on TV and the Internet - a huge black circle in the sky surrounded by a thin, irregular line of yellow. 

I was up at 5:30 in the morning and had breakfast at the motel. There were a lot of people up that early, all of whom were probably eclipse chasers like me. There was heavy fog and the bike was wet and there was also a circle of dampness directly under the bike the size of a dinner plate. I was worried that it might be transmission or engine oil, but it didn't taste like either, so I figured that it was just condensation that had dripped off the bike. More on that later. When I headed south on US 83 a little before 7:30 it was still foggy and damp and I stopped after about 30 miles to put on my overpants and rain gloves because I was getting wet. I stopped in Thedford after 65 miles to top off the gas tank since I didn't want to have to look for gas after the eclipse. In that part of Nebraska you often can't find gas in the small towns on the secondary roads. From Thedford I went west on Nebraska 2 to Mullen, and then south on NE 97 to Tryon, arriving around 9:30. NE 97 is a small, country road through farmland and rolling hills. A couple of farmers had opened up their fields and were offering parking. In Tryon I found the official viewing site and paid an extra $10 to park in a field near the viewing area. I could have parked for free farther away and taken a shuttle, but I wanted access to my bike in case I forgot something. I showed my ticket at the viewing area and put my things on one of the long benches that had been set up on a hill. Sister Vanya and Daughter Vanya (referred to from now on a SV and DV) were to meet me at several white tepees that had be put up in the center of town, but I didn't see them. As I was walking back to the viewing area, SV and DV went by in the back of one of the eclipse volunteer's golf cart. DV and SV drove up from North Platte in DV's car, which she parked right in town (that should be "town" - Tryon has a populate of 167, although it was considerably higher today) We did our greeting and decided that where I had put my stuff was as good a place as any -it was convenient to the port-a-potties, and there was a guy nearby with a very friendly Labradoodle named Vince. DV and I went back to the town center (we took a shuttle, although it is a short walk) to pick up coffee and a couple of folding chairs from her car, and I stopped at the bike to get something I'd forgotten. Back at the viewing area we chatted until it was time for the beginning of the eclipse, which started about 12:15. There were maybe 300 people scattered in the viewing area - the site could have easily handled three times that number. 

 

I didn't know it was a costume party! There was a rising sense of excitement as the time for eclipse approached. 

Through the eclipse glasses (as opaque as welder's goggles) you could see the slight crescent of black as the moon began to move into the path of the sun. SV had rigged up a eclipse glasses over the lenses of her binoculars, and the view through the binoculars was very good. When the sun was almost obliterated the sky began to darken, the wind picked up, and the temperature dropped. 

 

 

Applause and cheers went up at the beginning of totality, and then the people became quiet and mostly silent for next the two and a half minutes of totality. As the moon began to move out of the sun's path you could briefly see the "wedding ring" - the corona around the moon and a tiny dot of the sun. By the time the sun was a quarter back in business, people began packing up and moving out. There had been a bit of haze earlier, with scattered clouds that became more prevalent. DV, SV, and I had lunch at a barbecue truck, and twenty minutes after the end of the eclipse, a large cloud blocked the sun - if that had happened during the eclipse we wouldn't have seen a thing. Most people had left by the time we departed - DV and SV driving back to North Platte, where DV would drop off SV at the motel and then drive back home to Boulder.

I packed up my things, and put on my gear and by that time the field was empty of cars. I started the bike and pulled in the clutch, and - nothing. The clutch was not working at all. I managed to get the bike in gear and went to the gas station in town. They had brake fluid, and I opened up the clutch reservoir to see what I expected - it was almost empty. Remember that wet patch under the bike? I filled up the reservoir and worked the clutch handle until the air in the master cylinder bled out. I put everything back, started up and now the clutch was working fine. 

Back on the road I went west on NE 92 and then north on NE 61 to Hyannis, and then west on NE 2 to Alliance. If there had been traffic on the roads earlier it had dissipated this long after the event, so I had a traffic free ride all the way to Alliance. There were, however, many State Troopers and Sheriff's Deputies on the road. The municipalities in the eclipse path had cancelled days off and vacation and put officers on overtime to handle the anticipated crowds and extra traffic. NE 2 is a scenic ride through the Nebraska Sand Hill country, and I enjoyed the ride to Alliance, where I stopped for gas and then went north on US 385 to Chadron, where I'm spending the night. 

(Tuesday, August 22) After breakfast at the motel this morning, I packed up and headed west on US 20. There had been a wet stain under the bike again, and I refilled the reservoir, which was low. The clutch was working fine, but I knew that the slave cylinder could fail at any time. I stopped after 9 o'clock in Crawford at a city park to call shops in the Denver area to see if any of them had a slave cylinder in stock, and if they could work me into their schedule. After several calls I decided to go with a BMW shop in Centennial (south of Denver), which could order the part and get it by the next day and also work on the bike as soon as they got the part. 

From Crawford I went south on NE 71 to Scottsbluff, which has a peculiar smell and wasn't very attractive, at least the part I saw. NE 71 crosses I-80 at Kimball and I filled the gas tank and had lunch there before going west on I-80 to Cheyenne and then south on I-25 which would take me through Denver. Just south of Fort Collins the traffic on I-25 stopped, and it would remain jammed, slow, or stopped almost all the way through Denver. I couldn't figure out why the traffic was so slow - there was several areas of road construction, but there was (typically) no actual work taking place and all the lanes were open. I pulled off to find a motel near the BMW shop, and after making a reservation I went back on I-25. By this time the evening rush had begun, and I longed for the lane-splitting that I can do in California. I finally turned off the Interstate in Aurora, and checked into my motel. 

(Wednesday, August 23) This morning there was no stain under the bike. The BMW dealer was less than a mile from the motel, and I was there when they opened. They moved the bike inside the shop after I unloaded everything, and I looked at the new bikes on the showroom floor, and also the used bikes. There was a 2008 R1200R and I asked a salesman about the history. It had only 8000 miles, and had all the accessories I would want except a tank bag. It had belonged to a doctor who just rode it to work every now and then. Due to illness he could no longer ride, so the dealer was selling it on consignment. While the salesman was telling me this, Linda, the service manager, came over and gave me the bad news the the clutch part hadn't arrived in the parts shipment that morning. We also discussed the fact that the clutch could be contaminated by the leaking slave cylinder, and with 155 thousand miles on the bike, it would make sense to do the clutch at the same time as the slave cylinder since there was considerable labor overlap. The clutch parts they didn't have in stock could be expressed shipped for the next day. So, I had three choices:

1) Ride home without having anything done to the bike, and take a chance that the clutch would keep working OK.

2) Have them just do the slave cylinder.

3) Have them do the slave cylinder and a new clutch. 

Instead, I decided to buy the doctor's bike, and trade-in Victor (the R1150R). I got very little for Victor (high mileage), but the doctor's bike was a very good deal with the low mileage and all the accessories that I wanted.

After all the paperwork was done, I was out of the shop by mid-afternoon and headed up I-25 to US 6 to I-70. There was a brief traffic jam on I-25, but after that it was a good ride up into the Rockies. I had been 90 degrees in Denver, and I had all the vents on my jacket open. It began to cool of the higher I went, and then the sky became dark and cloudy. As I neared the Eisenhower Tunnel it began to pour with lightning and thunder. There was no place to pull off to put on my raingear, so I just kept riding and getting soaked. Somehow I had the idea that it would be clear and sunny on the west side of the tunnel, but of course that was not the case. I exited in Silverthorne (elevation 9000 feet) after 20 more minutes. I hadn't eaten since an early breakfast, so I ate in a Mexican restaurant in a small strip mall. I noticed a Super 8 right across the street, and since it was 4 PM I decided to just stay there for the night. After I checked in at the motel I went back to the strip mall where there was a laundromat - the main thing I wanted to do was to wash and dry my riding jeans. I came out of the laundromat to a sunny sky and a beautiful double rainbow.

 

I'm looking forward to tomorrow and getting used to the new bike. 

 

Victor is just shoved into the corner of the shop.

 

The new bike. The windscreen isn't as tall as it looks in the picture, but it is still taller than I'd like, and too upright. That will be the first change to the bike. 

(Thursday, August 24) Well, that was an easy 600 mile day. It was 44 degrees when I left the motel a little before 8 AM this morning. The sky was overcast, but the weather report said no showers until the afternoon. I wore my overpants, jacket liner, and heavy gloves, and was quite comfortable. I amused myself by playing with the suspension settings and the information display screen, and discovered that I actually rather enjoy these newfangled gadgets. Last night I read a PDF of the owner's manual, so I had a good idea of the various functions that were available. After about 100 miles I stopped for gas in Glenwood Springs, where it was 75 degrees, and shed a layer and switched to lighter gloves. The clouds had broken up and the sun was shining and it was a good ride through Glenwood Canon along the Eagle River, only marred by the road construction, which seems to be a permanent feature along that stretch of I-70. At one point the road went over a bridge and through a tunnel, and next to the river under the bridge a train was going by - it would have made a great picture, but there was no place to stop.

The mountains gave way to high desert with a few craggy hills in the distance, and the first part of Utah was the same. I stopped for lunch in Green River and back on the road the scenery became more dramatic with red cliffs and rocky outcrops close to the road. 

 

The temperature reached 95 degrees, but the clouds rolled in and I stopped at a rest area to put on my rain gear - I didn't want a repeat of yesterday's soaking. At the rest area I spent 20 minutes talking with a guy from Philadelphia, who was heading home after seeing the eclipse in Oregon. He'd intended to go to Madras, which was on the center of the path of totality, but there was too much traffic, so he stayed in a rest area on US 26 near Mitchel, where the totality was almost two minutes. He said there were about 500 people crowded into the area. He was an amateur astronomer and a camera buff, so he was well prepared for the event and enjoyed it immensely. There were signs of earlier rain on I-70, and a few sprinkles, but no rain and once I crossed over a 7800 foot summit and the road began going downhill, the sun came out, and the temperature rose. I exited I-70 in Salina, and it was over 90 degrees when I stopped in front of Mom's Cafe to shed the rain gear and open the vents on my jacket. 

US 50 joins I-15 and I rode that south for 10 miles where US 50 exits and goes to Delta, where I stopped for gas. After 60 miles or so I entered Nevada near Big Basin Park, and the road went over several passes. There was very few other cars or trucks on the road, and on this afternoon US 50 earned its name, The Lonliest Road in America. The sky was gray and there was water on the shoulder of the road when I reached Ely - afternoon thunderstorm. I checked into the motel and had dinner across the street at Evah's Restaurant in the Copper Queen casino. 

The new bike is a joy to ride: It is comfortable, has more power than I'll probably ever use, handles well, and after 11 hours and 600 miles I'm not aching or even tired. Victor was a great bike, and we had some wonderful adventures together, but with the problems that I had recently, and with the probablility of more to come, it was time to say goodbye. 154 thousand very good miles. 

(Friday, August 25) It was 58 degrees when I checked the tire pressures in the morning, but had warmed to 65 when I left the Bristlecone motel at 7:40 and I probably didn't need the overpants and jacket liner that I was wearing. It was a clear and beautiful day and I enjoyed the 70 miles and three passes that I rode over on my way to breakfast at the Owl Club restaurant in Eureka, where it had warmed to 75 degrees. The restaurant was empty so service was quick, once the waitress, who was in the bar in the next room chatting with the bartender, noticed I was there. For once I didn't finish all my breakfast - the second thick pancake was too much.

Back on the road I enjoyed the ride to Austin, although I was stuck behind a slow truck for the last 10 miles or so - the last curves I would see on US 50. After a stop at the Chevron station in Austin I cruised along at the 70 mph limit and, sure enough, the enthusiastic local sheriff had pulled an SUV over about 10 miles west of Austin. Past the sand dunes, and the new shoe tree, and I was soon in Fallon, where I stopped at the busy Courtyard Cafe for lunch. By now it had warmed to 90 degrees and I opened the vents on the jacket before I continued on US 50 to Fernley, where I went on I-80 west at 75 mph through Sparks and Reno and gassed up in Verdi, just before the California border. Once through the agricultural inspection station about 10 miles east of Truckee it was clear road and light traffic to Roseville, where there was a bit of a slowdown, although nothing like the 5 mile long jam going the opposite direction - Friday getaway to the mountains, and the aftermath of a crash that wasn't blocking anything, but presented a "visual hazard" as the traffic reporters like to say. Once through a brief slowdown west of Sacramento where business 80 and 50 join I-80, which shrinks from 5 to three lanes, I was again riding at the limit up the hill and past the rest area at the highway 37 turnoff through Vallejo. Again I was going the right direction on two-lane 37 as I moved along at 60 mph and the traffic going east was barely crawling. South on US 101 in Novato, through San Rafael, and over the fog-enshrouded Golden Gate Bridge, where the temperature was 58 degrees - it had been 102 degrees in Sacramento an hour earlier. After 550 miles I turned into our driveway at 6:30 PM to be greeted by Carol and Walter.

Ten days on the road and 4,094 miles. I started out on one bike and came home on another. Except for an intense but brief storm in Colorado, the weather was good. Highlights were the empty spaces of Wyoming, and the friendly people in Nebraska, and of course the eclipse. Right now I'm looking forward to many long trips on The Doctor, the new-to-me R1200R.

BMW Rally and Pie Town

(Left San Francisco Monday, July 10) Every year the BMW Motorcycle Owners of America (BMWMOA) holds a large rally, and this year it was in Salt Lake City. John P., with whom I've travelled on many trips, and Jeff, a friend of John's who just got back into motorcycling a couple of years ago, and I decided to ride to the rally together. We met at John C. and Carol's house in Colfax, CA and spent an hour or so visiting with them. Both John P. and I have been on several motorcycle trips with John C. in the past, but he can't ride anymore due to medical reasons. We continued east on I-80, but were detoured off the Interstate about 20 miles from Nevada due to a forest fire ahead. The only option was to go back to Truckee, ride south to Lake Tahoe, and go east along the shore to US 50, which we rode into Carson City and then to Fallon where we had rooms booked. 

My Carol was supposed to ride with me, but four weeks ago she crashed her bicycle and suffered a very severe bruise on her leg (among other injuries),  which developed into a hard knot that wouldn't go away. Carol (and her doctor) decided that sitting on a motorcycle for many hours was a very bad idea until the swelling and bruising dissipated. So, instead of riding my BMW to the rally I switched to the Suzuki Wee-Storm in the hopes that later this summer Carol might ride with me to Nebraska (on the BMW which is more comfortable for her) to view the eclipse. 

On Tuesday morning we continued east on US 50 past the sand dunes, the new shoe tree, through Austin and into Eureka where we had lunch at the Owl Club Cafe, a restaurant where I've often dined in the past. Both John and I have been across Nevada on US 50 many times, but this was a first time for Jeff and he enjoyed the empty roads, the numerous passes, and the beautiful if somewhat bleak scenery. We spent the night in Delta, UT - John and Jeff at a Day's Inn, and I at the Rancher Motel. Just as well that Carol wasn't with me because I don't think that she would have been favorably impressed with the motel, although I thought it was just fine. 

 

After coffee at our respective motels we left at 8:30 and rode northeast on US 6 to Lynndyl, where we went east on UT 132 to Nephi, where we had breakfast at One Man Band near the Interstate. I-15 north has an 80 mph speed limit until it gets near Provo where it drops to 65, and where I waved goodbye to John and Jeff as I exited at US 189. They were going to their motel near the fairgrounds in SLC, and I was headed to Deer Valley near Park City to stay at Linda and Peter's condo there. Provo is a university town and somewhat spread out, but I was through it quickly and followed 189 through Provo canyon along the river, a very pleasant and scenic drive. This used to be a two-lane road with many tight turns and it was a lot of fun until you got behind a truck or motorhome. Now it is four lanes and the turns have been straightened out to a great extent, but it is still a good ride. I followed the GPS to UT 113 to Midway and then 222 and 224 over the pass and into Park City to Linda's condo. The road has only recently been paved all the way, and it was a very beautiful ride through groves of aspen trees with many tight turns. 

At the condo I met Linda and Peter and unloaded the bike. I also talked with Tim, the property manager for the complex, who rides a BMW and who was very excited that this year's rally was going to be in his backyard. Tonya, Linda and Peter's elder daughter, and Tonya's kids, Nina and Forde, arrived later in the afternoon and Linda picked them up from the airport. 

After breakfast at the condo Thursday morning I rode into Salt Lake City and to the Fairpark near the airport where the MOA rally was being held. Registration was quick and efficient, and I was told that I could transfer Carol's guest ticket to Forde, so I called Linda and she drove him to the fairgrounds. Forde is a gear head and he enjoyed all the motorcycles and the vendors' displays of motorcycle goodies, gear, and apparel. It was hot at the fairgrounds, 96 degrees, but most of the vendors and seminars were indoors in air-conditioned buildings. This dog was taking advantage of the cool, cement floor.

 

 

They were expecting 5000 people at the rally, and usually about 40% of the attendees camp on the grounds.

 

I managed to find a few small items to purchase, but Jeff added a Bluetooth system to his Schuberth helmet, and John purchased a tire changer, which he had shipped to his house. Friday was more of the same, although Forde did not attend. We watched the GS Giants in which riders, fully attired in protective gear (hot!) attempted to ride an obstacle course that included deep sand, narrow lanes, negotiating narrow planks, and other fiendish challenges, all aboard 600 pounds of motorcycle. Just watching for 15 minutes was enough for us, and we went back to the air-conditioned buildings. 

I avoided the Friday afternoon getaway from SLC and left for the condo before 4. We all went into Park City where we enjoyed a meal at the Blue Iguana, a Mexican restaurant. Back at the condo everyone packed for the flight or drive to Cody, WY. Linda and Peter's 50th wedding anniversary is Saturday, the 15th, and all four of their kids plus all the grandkids will meet in Cody before they spend a week at a nearby dude ranch. On Saturday Linda and Peter loaded the car and left at 7:45 for the drive to Cody. Tonya and children flew out of SLC for Cody at 1:30 PM, and I left at 8:20 or so, headed for Hanna, UT. The previous day John and Jeff said that they were meeting an old friend, Thane, who lives in SLC, at their hotel and they were going for a breakfast ride to the Hanna Cafe on UT 35. That was very close to my route east to Boulder, so I said that I'd join them. The route took me through back country with many bicyclists on the road, along Wolf Creek and then up and over Wolf Creek Pass (9500 feet). About half way to Hanna I caught up with seven motorcycles following a truck. All the bikes passed the truck, and then three of the bikes, along with me, passed the other four bikes. I recognized John's bike and so followed the group over the pass, which was only somewhat marred by about 10 miles of gravel where the road was being chip sealed. 

Thane, who was leading our small pack, is a tall Scandinavian and is 85 years old, and he set a brisk pace - I certainly wouldn't have gone any faster if I'd been alone. The Hanna Cafe seems to be the only place in town, and the food was good although the building was funky.

 

When I left John, Jeff and Thane they were discussing whether to spend the rest of the day riding around the mountains, or whether to return to the rally in SLC. I headed east on UT 35 and soon came to UT 87, which I rode south to Duchesne and US 40. I purchased gas in Roosevelt, and looked in vain for my favorite coffee shop in Vernal, which appears to have closed. Fortunately, the large, pink dinosaur at the east side of town is still there.

 

I stopped for a late lunch at the B & B restaurant in Dinosaur, CO where Andrew and I had lunch on our first motorcycle trip together in 1998 on our way to an MOA BMW rally in Missoula, MT.  

 

The rest of the way to Craig, CO featured high desert, hot weather, and little traffic. I first time I rode through Craig was in 1972 on my first cross-country motorcycle trip, and Carol and I went through there several times on our way to Steamboat Springs to go skiing. Since then I've been through and stayed in the town many times over the years, and it has changed very little, in contrast to Steamboat which has grown by at least a factor of five. The motel, the Bear Valley Inn, is another place that Carol would probably not find enticing, but it suits my needs, although at $65.55 it's a bit more money than I usually pay. 

I serviced the chain on the Wee, and then rode into town where I had a cup of coffee at the local book store and spent about 10 minutes talking with the owner, whose son is a junior at the University of Colorado in Boulder. I spent another 10 minutes seeing the town - plenty of time for that - and rode back to the motel, then walked a few tenths of a mile to a bar and grill for dinner. 

Tomorrow I hope to get an early start for breakfast in Steamboat Springs, and then through Rocky Mountain National Park to Boulder. With any luck I'll beat the weekend traffic back to Denver and Boulder.

(Sunday, July 16) By 8 AM I was on the road and riding into the sun towards Steamboat Springs, where I arrived  around  9 AM. To be honest Colorado on US 50 west of Craig just isn't that great - mostly straight road, high desert rocky landscape that is interesting for a half hour, and very few towns. Just east of Craig US 50 follows a river and railroad tracks, and curves and elevation changes make for a pleasant ride. In recent years I've been through Steamboat Springs in the summer, and there was a lot of traffic and the sidewalks were full of tourists looking for western wear, jewelry, and whatever it is that people look for in quaint places. Early on a Sunday morning the three blocks of the old town that line US 50 were serene, and I rode past the F.M. Light western wear store (established 1905) and the Cantina restaurant, where Dick and I had an excellent mexican dinner back in 1972. I parked around the corner from Winona's restaurant, where I sat outside and ate an interesting eggs benedict that came with thinly sliced and chopped ham instead of the usual slab of canadian bacon or ham. It was very good, as was the coffee - the best I've had on this trip so far. When I left Winona's there was a small crowd waiting for tables, and I got on the bike and continued east over Rabbit Ears Pass (9400 feet). Once again I didn't stop at a view area on the way up the pass to take a picture of the beautiful Yampa Valley - maybe next time. US 40 is two lanes going up to the pass, and there was little traffic, so I was able to enjoy the road and the scenery. The road becomes two lane once over the pass, and it winds through aspen groves and mountainous terrain to Kremmling, where I stopped for gas at a very busy Kum & Go station and talked to a couple on a Gold Wing trike who were headed for Ohio and a reunion. Back on the road I went through Sulphur Springs, which looks like it may be about to become a artist or alternate lifestyle community, and I turned left on US 34 just before Granby to head into Rocky Mountain National Park. The road goes by a couple of lakes and recreation areas so there was local traffic as well as people headed to RMNP, but it moved along OK. 

The park is pleasant enough (I've been through there many times) and traffic, while heavier than I would like, moved along at the 45 or 35 mph speed limit. Near the top the traffic increased as people pulled into or out of view areas, and there was a sign at the large visitors' center at the top of Trail Ridge Road that proclaimed the lot was full. Although I'm sure that I could have found room for my bike, I continued on, having been there and done that. A mile or so from the top I did stop at a convenient pull-out to take a picture of the Rockies.

 

The road down the mountain was a bit slow with traffic, and at the east gate I measured a half mile long string of cars waiting to get into RMNP. Estes Park is very much a mountain tourist and outdoors town,  but I found the Kind Coffee shop just outside the busy downtown, and I also stopped to admire a very large, black German Shepherd. The owner explained that the black variant was used by the Czech and Slovak police, and that was the origin of her dog. A scone and a good cup of coffe later I headed for Boulder.

 

The last time I rode from Boulder to Estes Park I took the somewhat more scenic CO 7, which is higher in the mountains and goes through forest with only the occasional lodge or vacation home. This time I rode on US 36, which follows a river (complete with people riding tubes) and winds through a rocky canyon and groves of trees. In Boulder there was an unusual amount of traffic for a Sunday afternoon, but I found the Rodeway Brokers with no problem and checked in. I've stayed here several times over the years, and the place is slowly moving from faded elegance to slightly funky, with paint splatters on the bathroom floor, hot-cold reversed on the sink faucet (the tub faucet is conventional), and an air conditioner that struggles mightily to keep the room at the high end of tolerable. 

I called Vanya and Nikki (Vanya lives in Boulder and her younger sister stopped here on her way back to San Francisco) and they drove to the Brokers with Rocky, Vanya's large and exhuberent lab mix, and we went for an hour's walk along the creek, which Rocky kept splashing in. Dinner with Vanya and Nikki was pizza from Garage Pizza and we watched last season's finale of Game of Thrones before watching this season's premier. 

(Tuesday, July 18) Yesterday morning Nikki and Rocky and I took a walk along Boulder Creek for over an hour. Rocky enjoyed splashing in the water and at one point he was swimming against the current - sort of a doggie water treadmill.

 

 Vanya picked Nikki and I up and we drove to Arabesque, a Mediterranean restaurant on Pearl St. where we met Jon (Carol's sister and her husband live in Boulder) for lunch. After lunch Vanya returned to work and Nikki and I wandered on Pearl St. for an hour or so. Pearl St. is the shopping center of Boulder, with upscale stores and a lot of touristy stuff that you find everywhere. It's very well presented and fun in it's way - a bit like Main St. in Park City. Monday evening the three of us went out to dinner, after which we said our goodbyes - Nikki was flying back to San Francisco the next morning.

This morning (Tuesday) I was in no particular hurry to get on the road because I was heading south from Boulder and I wanted to miss the morning commute traffic. At a little after nine I was riding south on CO 93, Baseline Rd., and the traffic wasn't bad all the way out of the Denver area. US 285 is a scenic ride through the mountains, but it is a major North/South road, so it carries a lot of traffic. Fortunately, there are many passing lanes and on this morning everything moved well. I stopped at the Java Moose in Fairplay (elevation almost 10,000 feet) for coffee, a pastry, and to check out the map for an alternate route to US 285.

 

Just outside Fairplay I turned southeast on CO 9, which had very little traffic, and goes through mountain valleys and forest. Before I reached Canon City I turned west on US 50, which took me through a canyon along the Arkansas River. At Texas Creek I went south on CO 69, and it's a similar road to 9, but with more curves and hills. There were ranches and the occasional lodge along the road and after 90 miles of happy riding I stopped in Walsenburg for a late lunch. The patrons of George's Drive-in all seemed to be local, and the chicken sandwich was grilled and tasty. 

 

After 30 miles of US 160 west out of Walsenburg the road goes over the North La Veta Pass (at 9400 feet) and then descends into the verdant and serene San Luis valley. At Fort Garland I went south on CO 159, which becomes NM 522. Just before riding into New Mexico a couple of very small towns a couple of miles apart each had a marijuana dispensary - last chance! A mile into New Mexico and the dark clouds that I'd seen earlier in the day opened up and my jeans became a bit soaked before I found a place to turn off the highway so I could put on rain pants and gloves and close the vents on my jacket. This was a proper thunderstorm with lightning, thunder, and finally hail. Back on the road the rain soon stopped and in Questa I went east on NM 38 to Red River and the Ponderosa Lodge, where I'm spending the night. I'd been to Red River once before about 15 years ago when I attended a BMW rally there. At the rally I met John C. and Dan, two of the Gang of 4 that rode to Alaska several years ago. Red River is a ski town in the winter (the town is 8750 feet) and a fishing and general recreation town in the summer. Across the street at Brett's Bistro I had an excellent catfish diner, and then wandered around the town, which is all along NM 38 - tourist stuff, outfitter stores, and several angling shops. Red River seems like a friendly town - everyone I passed on my walk smiled and said, "Hello."

This evening I plotted out a route for tomorrow and reserved a room in Socorro.

(Wednesday, July 19) The Ponderosa Lodge was probably a fine place in the rustic tradition 30 years ago, but it's in need of a few upgrades and maintenance - I'd like a hot shower in the morning. As long as I'm complaining, I may as well mention that the coffee shop across the street was not open, in spite of the fact that last night I was told at the shop would open at 5. There was a coffee maker in the room, but it seemed silly to brew a 10 cup pot for just me. It was 52 degrees when I began packing the bike, so I wore my fleece jacket liner and my overpants when I headed out of town on NM 38. There were few cars or trucks, and the road and the weather were clear so I enjoyed the mountain road, the forest and the scenery.

 

Once over Bobcat Pass (9854 feet) the road begins a slow descent through valleys and into Eagle Nest, where I was confronted by road construction on US 64. At the intersection I couldn't tell whether the part of town with the restaurants was to the left or right, so I chose to go right since the one-way traffic control was letting cars through in that direction. Wrong choice, since 64 soon ran out of town. I could have turned back, but that meant another wait at the construction zone, so I continued on for about 15 miles to Angel Fire, which is on NM 434. and found The Bakery & Cafe, which provided a good breakfast. 

 

Angel Fire is a ski area with year round lodges and outdoor recreation. After breakfast I stowed away my fleece liner and overpants and switched to light gloves, and continued on NM 434 south, which went through valleys and evergreen forest and by ranches and the occasional lodge. The road was in good shape except for about 10 miles of construction with short waits at one way traffic control, and unsaved road. Once out of the construction the road became even more pleasant until it ended in Mora at NM 518. Northwest on 518 through the Sanger De Cristo mountains I enjoyed the scenery and the road - the whole area is criss-crossed with small roads, tiny towns, recreation areas, ski areas, and beautiful scenery. I went west on NM 75 then south on NM 76, which is a tiny road that goes southwest from Penasco to Chimayo where I went on NM 503 south of Espinola, then 502 to Los Alamos, where I found a new tourist town complete with a Starbuck's where I had a sandwich and coffee. I spent a half hour at the Manhattan Project National Historical Park, which is a small building with a few exhibits and a 20 minute film about the project. Most of the original labs, housing, and other buildings were allowed to deteriorate and then were torn down, but there's an effort to preserve what is left and build a more extensive museum. 

Outside of town the route took me through the Los Alamos laboratories, where I stopped at a guard gate and was warned not to go off the main road and not to take pictures. On NM 4 I rode southeast - more mountain road, more extraordinary scenery, and very nice riding.

 

Eventually 4 began a long descent and the scenery changed to red rocks and dirt, much like in southern Utah. 

 

NM 4 ended at the southern end of US 550, which I followed to Bernalillo and I-25. I'd noticed that the bike would be due for an oil change in a few hundred miles, so I stopped at a Home Depot (air conditioned)  and called a Suzuki shop in Albuquerque to see if I could get a quick oil change. Not today, I was told (it was 4 PM so that wasn't surprising), but they could do it tomorrow first thing in the morning. Having already reserved a room at the San Miguel Inn in Socorro, about 80 miles south of Albuquerque, I continued there, checked in, lubed the chain, and also called the Suzuki shop to see if they could add a rear tire to the work they were doing. Not a problem, I was told, so I went to dinner (El Camino Family Restaurant - recommended by the person who checked me in at the motel) and planned on an early start in the morning.

(Thursday, July 20) After a very stingy breakfast at the motel I was on I-25 heading north at 7:10, and I arrived at the shop at 8:40 - plenty of time to remove the panniers and engine protector (skid) plate before they opened at 9. While they worked on the bike I had a real breakfast at nearby Owl Cafe, one of those places that manufactures nostalgia and attempts to cash in on the Route 66 thing. But, the food was good and the 50s and 60s rock 'n' roll was fun to listen to. Back at the shop I had a short wait while they finished up the bike, and I discovered that the rear tire was on sale, so I was out of there for under $300 - at least 50% less than I pay for similar service in San Francisco. I was buttoned up and back on the road before 11:30 and soon was back in Socorro where I went west on NM 60, a lonely, high desert road. I stopped for gas in Magdalena, and discovered that there is actually an old downtown, which consists of maybe half a dozen buildings.

 

The scattered clouds of the morning had gathered together and I headed into increasingly threatening skies. Just before I reached the VLA (Very Large Array) radio telescope site, the rain began and I stopped to zip up the jacket vents, and put on rain gloves and overpants. 

 

Through Datil, across the continental divide, and, finally, Pie Town. The Pie-O-Neer is an old, wooden building that has basic tables and chairs in front of a counter that has the whole pies and slices on display. In the back you can see into the kitchen where two women were working making pies.  I had the peach and chopped green chili, which in spite of my doubts was very good. I also had a slice of blueberry pie, which was equally good. I spoke with the owner for awhile - he's a friendly guy who is really into pies. 

 

 

Although the rain had stopped, the sky looked threatening, so I stayed with my rain gear. Good thing, because shortly I rode through another thundershower and would hit showers off and on for the rest of the afternoon. Still, the road was in good shape, the scenery was interesting, and I made good time until 15 miles south of Gallup, NM where there was a detour around the reconstruction of a small bridge. I should say that there had been a detour, because a flash flood earlier in the day had washed out the detour. After waiting half an hour I walked up the small line of vehicles and spoke with an NM Department of Transportation worker, who said that he'd been there for four hours and they weren't much closer to repairing the damage. I waited another half hour, and spoke again with the worker who said that he'd just been told that the detour would reopen in another two or three hours. I decided to take the advice of a Native American woman I'd been speaking with, who directed me through the reservation as a way to bypass the closed detour. After one wrong turn, I found the right road and indeed some kids had put up hand-lettered signs directing people to the right road. Something it seems to me that the road workers or the highway patrol could have done themselves. 

 

Unfortunately, a good part of the detour was on dirt and gravel road, so perhaps that's why the officials were reluctant to direct people there. Eventually, I arrived in Gallup, where I purchased gas and continued on to Window Rock, where I'm spending the night at a Quality Inn. 

(Friday, July 21)  My efforts to find a place to stay for tonight in Torrey, UT or Escalante or any of the towns nearby were in vain, so I booked a room in Hanksville, only 300 miles down the road. A small breakfast at the restaurant in the Quality Inn was included with the room, and after eating I was on the road by 8:30. It was cool and overcast, and just outside Window Rock I turned north on BIA (Bureau of Indian Affairs?) 12, which winds around through the reservation to the east of Canyon de Chelly National Monument until it joins US 191 in Round Rock. The sky became more overcast, and I ran into a few sprinkles at the tops of hills, but eventually the showers stopped, the weather cleared and the day warmed up from the low 60s to the 80s. All the land on BIA 12 was high desert with scattered small houses and trailers,  but it became more scenic on 191, which follows a river. At US 160 in Mexican Water I stopped for gas and a cup of coffee at the restaurant nearby, and continued for a mile or so and went north on 191 to US 163 where I turned west towards Monument Valley. After a few miles I rode by the road for Valley of the Gods, a dirt road that winds around through scenic rock formations and which Andrew and I drove on about 12 years ago when he was just learning to drive. A few more miles and I went north on UT 261 and in another 8 miles I was at the base of the Moki Dugway, a steep, narrow, winding, and unpaved road that goes up the side of a cliff for 3 miles. There were a couple of places to pull over, but the road is barely a lane and a half, and in some places one narrow lane. Fortunately, the only car coming down the road while I was on it was stopped at a pull-off area. The road has mounds of gravel in places, so one has to pay attention and not gawk at the scenery, which is dramatic.

 

At the top I was so enthusiastic about the dirt experience that I immediately turned off onto a dirt road for 3 miles looking for a good picture site, but eventually turned back when the deep sand and gravel began to worry me.

 

A couple of signs at the upper end of the Moki Dugway:

   

Dirt riding desires finally satisfied, I continued on 261 for 30 miles until it ended at NM 95, which I followed northwest past Natural Bridges National Monument and then through the Glen Canyon Recreation Area. The red rock desert and formations are scenic, although this is familiar territory to me. 

 

   

There are hills and curves on 95, although the road isn't challenging - just a relaxing ride with enjoyable views and very few vehicles of any kind, although I did see a few trucks pulling large boats - there is access to Lake Powell from 95. I crossed over the Colorado River, and in mid-afternoon rode into Hanksville, where I'm spending the night at the Whispering Sands motel.

(Saturday, July 22) This may have been the easiest 500 mile day ever. This morning I was on the road at 7:30 headed west on UT 24 which I followed for 60 miles through Capitol Reef National Park. It was 62 degrees with scattered clouds and I enjoyed the scenery and the absence of traffic headed west. There were a couple of dozen vehicles going east, mostly large pickups towing large boats headed for Lake Powell. 

 

I stopped at the Castlerock Coffee and Candy in Torrey at the junction of Highway 12, which goes to Escalante and Bryce. Breakfast was quick and tasty and the coffee was good. I stayed on 24 through Bicknell and Loa and rode over an 8400 foot summit near Koosharem. The scenery was rolling hills, ranches, and some farm land, and the day warmed up as I descended to a lower altitude. Soon I joined US 50 near Salina (too early for lunch at Mom's) and followed that to I-15, where I rode south for 10 miles until I exited and followed 50 to Delta, and continued to the border, where I stopped for a sandwich at the Border Motel Casino and restaurant. The service was a bit slow, but I was making better time that I thought I would, and I continued east on 50 through Ely and Eureka where the sky darkened and I even felt a few raindrops. Fortunately, the weather seemed to be to the south.

 

 After an enjoyable ride over the Austin summit I came into Austin, where I'm spending the night at the Cozy Mountain Motel. There are three motels in Austin, and I've already stayed at the other two, so I thought that I'd give this one a try. 

 

Diner tonight will be at the International, the only place in town that's open.

 

(Sunday, July 23) When I was at the Pie-O-Neer in Pie Town, I spent some time talking with the proprietor, who had lived in several places including Seattle, but had been in Pie Town for 40 years and wouldn't live anywhere else. He said that his aunt used to live in San Francisco and he enjoyed visiting her, but that one is trapped in San Francisco. I think he meant that being at the tip of a peninsula, you can't go anywhere except south without crossing a bridge, but I think about being trapped here sometimes because of the traffic. I usually don't go anywhere on a Sunday, and avoid driving or riding anywhere on Saturday if I can. During the week I don't go out before 10 AM and avoid being on the road after 3 PM. Since I'm retired I can get away with the self-inflicted and limiting schedule, and of course it isn't like I can't go anywhere - I just choose not to because I don't like dealing with traffic. I thought about this as I fought through several traffic jams once I crossed into California in the late morning. 

The day began with just a few scattered clouds and the temperature was already over 70 degrees when I rolled out of Austin at 7:20 in the morning. The room in the Cozy Mountain Motel was small, but clean and comfortable. Sandy, the owner, was a bit of a character as one might guess from the outside of the motel office. The overnight condensation brought out the smell of sage in the desert air, and I went over a few summits outside of Austin.

 

Sandy had recommended breakfast at a cafe in Middle Gate, about 60 miles down the road, but she wasn't sure when it opened on Sunday. I decided to stop in Cold Springs 50 miles), where I saw another bar/cafe that was open. Breakfast was good and there were numerous old guns hanging from the ceiling over the bar and the tables. Back outside the day had warmed considerably, and I switched to light gloves and opened the vents on my jacket before setting off. I passed the cafe in Middlegate and I could see that it was open, so I'll have to stop there next time. There was little traffic on the road and I went over decreasingly lofty summits as I got towards Fallon, which I went through without stopping. Another 20 miles or so the Fernley, and I was on I-80 heading west. I stopped for gas about 5 miles from the California border, last chance to refuel without having to deal with the annoying vapor recovery nozzles - a CA exclusive. 

  

There was no sign of the fire that had halted our eastward progress two weeks earlier, but there were a couple of traffic slowdowns before the Donner Summit. I stopped at Ikeda's in Auburn for special granola for Carol and a slice of pie for me - the place was very crowded with a line outside waiting to order food, although the store where I got my purchases wasn't bad. In Roseville, about 15 miles east of Sacramento, there was the first of several traffic stops where I resorted to splitting lanes for a few miles. There was another jam west of Sacramento where I-80 goes from four lanes to two before it merges with Business 80, and another couple before I turned off on Highway 37 at Vallejo. This is usually a reliable way of avoiding the heavy traffic and jams on the bridges, but on this Sunday everyone seems to have had the same idea. Just when I'd committed to 37, on George Miller bridge, the traffic slowed and stopped. It was stop and go about halfway down the 10 mile stretch of Highway 37 two-lane, and even after it began moving steadily it  was only moving at 20 or 30 miles per hour. Finally, once past the Sears Point intersection and the Lakeville highway stoplight, the traffic began moving at the limit. I could see that the cars going east were in for slow moving as well. At Novato I turned south on Highway 101 and rode along at the limit, although there was a slowdown at the approach to the Golden Gate Bridge - nothing like it would be later in the afternoon when everyone from SF and the peninsula who had gone to Marin or Sonoma or Napa counties to enjoy a summer day would return. 

Walter was very happy to see me, as were Carol and Nikki, although they didn't give me big, sloppy kisses like Water did.

 

The total mileage for the trip was over 4000, and the bike ran faultlessly, getting 55-60 miles per gallon on regular gas, although the mileage dropped when I spent any significant time going 80 mph on I-15. The bike, which is "only" 650cc, makes for a great solo tourer. The only time I felt the need for more power was when making passes at high altitude. The bike is comfortable for me, handles well when loaded up, and makes for a great companion on the road. Next trip will be to Nebraska to view the eclipse in late August.