The plan was to ride the Harley (2021 Low Rider S) to Park City, Utah and visit a couple of days with my sister and her husband who have a nice ski condo outside of town in Deer Valley. They had just spent a week at a dude ranch near West Yellowstone with their four kids, grandkids, and kids’ spouses. Unfortunately, they began feeling ill as they neared Park City, took Covid tests, and found that they had the virus. Fortunately, they both have mild cases, but I’ve avoided the disease so far and I’d like to keep it that way, so we’ll get together another time. After consulting my maps, I decided to head out the same way I’d planned, but once in Utah to head south and loop around Monument Valley before returning home. I added two days riding and two more nights on the road, and only had to change one motel reservation.
It was about 55 degrees an foggy when I left the house a little after 11, but by the time I reached Corte Madera in Marin County it was near 70 and sunny. I rode across the delta on Highway 37 to Vallejo and got on I-80 east towards Sacramento. Lunch was at my favorite Starbucks in Dixon, where it was about 95 degrees. I opened the jacket vents and switched to light gloves, and for once remembered to put sunscreen on my wrists, which are exposed between the gloves and jacket sleeve. A few miles east of Donner Summit the traffic began backing up and I split lanes for 5 miles until the right lane became closed due to road construction (lane blocked with orange barrels, no constructing taking place). After another 5 miles the road went back to two lanes and all was well. Once in Nevada I got through Reno with only a brief slowdown, exited for Alt US 50 at Fernley, and arrived at the Comfort Inn in Fallon before 6. The young lady at the desk said that I could park the bike right outside the front door, so I did. Dinner was at a Mexican restaurant next door.
The Harley ran fine (5,000 mile service just before the trip), got very good gas mileage ($6.85/gal at a Shell station in Auburn, $5.65/gal at a Chevron in Fallon), and my butt was just getting a bit tired at the end of the day. (305 miles)
(Thursday, July 21, 2022) The breakfast at the Comfort Inn was simple but excellent, and after a little shopping at a Walmart and an Ace Hardware nearby, I left before 9 and headed east into the sun on US 50. Fallon is basically one long street with every franchise, but suddenly it is gone and you are in the desert. 50 miles outside of town the new shoe tree is looking a bit ragged, but at least no has cut it down yet (the fate of the old shoe tree). I stopped in Austin for old times sake and to check out the Visitors Center - quite nice and a clean washroom. Outside of Austin US 50 becomes a very nice section of twisty road that climbs up to Austin Summit (7500 feet) and then descends past Bob Scott campground (where I’ve camped several times back in my camping days), and then 50 levels out with the occasional pass. I got gas in Eureka (187 miles from Fallon) and looked for dining options besides the Owl Cafe, but nothing looked enticing, so I ate at my usual spot, the Owl Club - turkey, bacon melt with onion rings, probably only about 1500 calories.
Eureka is about 6500 feet, and although it was 90 degrees it was pleasant. Back on the bike and east on US 50. I filled up again in Ely after only 80 miles because I didn’t want to stop again until Delta. Ely is near (or partly on) Tribal land, and the Native Americans seem to have gone into the cannabis business. I saw a large establishment with a drive-through (!) and later I saw a new white and green van for deliveries.
Before and after Ely a long section of US 50 had recently been chip sealed, but not finished, so there were no pavement lines and you had to watch for oil and gravel. The sky became cloudy, and there was even a sprinkle or two as the road climbed over Connors Pass (7750 feet) before descending and crossing into Utah. There’s a Philips 66 at the border (along with a motel and cafe), so I could have waited until then to get gas. About 50 miles later the horizon became very dark, and I decided to pull over and take a picture of the thundercloud. Unfortunately, I chose a bad spot - the gravel shoulder went into a wider pull-out area, but I stopped too close to the shoulder and put my right foot down, and realized too late that there was still a slope. My foot slipped on the gravel, and bike and I slowly toppled over. I rolled away, jumped up and turned off the bike, and attempted to get it upright. I could get the bike up to about 45 degrees, but when I put my back to the bike and attempted to “walk it up” with my legs, my feet would slip. US 50 is the self-proclaimed loneliest road, but in truth there is regular traffic. After about two minutes a pickup with a camper went by heading west, and after a minute the same pickup (after making a U-turn) pulled over and an older guy (probably my age) got out. We got the bike upright and on its side stand with no difficulty, and I thanked him and we were both on our way. I never did get a picture of the thunder clouds, and I did not take a picture of my bike on its side.
The clouds produced a little 5 minute rain shower later on, and then I was dry again in another 10 minutes. Delta, Utah is about the same as it has always been, although the park in the center of town where Carol and stopped one hot day probably 45 years ago is much nicer - the trees have grown, the grounds are well-kept, and there are flower beds, a pavilion, and a playground. I got gas at the Chevron station, checked into the Days Inn, and checked out the bike carefully. The right mirror has a couple of new scratches on it, and the rear brake pedal is scraped. The metal shelf at the bottom of the panniers is scratched on its edge, and that prevented the bike from being damaged. A stupid mistake, but, fortunately, with only minor consequences.
I walked back through town to the Rancher Cafe, where I’ve eaten many times before. (425 miles)
(Friday, July 21, 2022) Be careful what you wish for. It was 55 degrees and foggy when I left San Francisco, and I was hoping for warm weather. When I pulled into Bluff, Utah at 5 PM it was 104 degrees.
The Days Inn in Delta was what I’ve come to expect from that chain - somewhere between Motel 6 and Super 8. The tub drain was very slow, as was the sink, the room was tired, and breakfast was coffee, toast, and a little package of fruit cocktail - enough to get me going. I left before 9 and continued on US 50 to I-15 N which I followed for 15 miles - at the 80 mph limit the miles go by rapidly. US 50 resumes in Scipio and I followed that southeast to Salina, where I stopped for breakfast at Mom’s Cafe, where I’ve eaten before. Before I went in I chatted for awhile with Dave from Corpus Christi, Texas, who was on a touring Harley was returning home from visiting his son in Portland, Oregon. Breakfast was filling and good, and afterwards I walked over to a supermarket where I purchased a large tube of SPF 50 sunscreen. My old, compact tube of SPF 30 was not doing the job on my wrists, which are exposed between the short, summer gloves and the jacket sleeve. Of course since the sunscreen had an expiration date of 05/2010, that may have had something to do with it.
I rode back through town to UT 24 where I went southeast towards Loa. Just a couple of miles outside of town I passed a sheriff at an excessive speed, and he flashed his lights and pulled me over. In my defense he was driving a black Charger with hidden lights and a standard Utah plate. As soon as I passed him, however, I realized my mistake. He asked me how my day was going, and I told pretty good up until now, but he said not to worry, it would continue OK and he was just going to give me a warning. Which he did after running my license and registration.
I continued on 24 through ranch land by Loa, Koosharem, and Lyman at a slightly slower pace. In truth the Utah rural limit of 65 mph is reasonable, and I enjoyed the scenery and the couple of low (6000 feet) mountains. In the slightly larger town of Torrey the Castle Rock Cafe, where I’d stopped many times for good coffee and lunch and snacks, was closed with a for sale sign -probably a victim of the Covid shutdown. The road through Canyonlands is always beautiful and there are pictures in blog entries from previous years. Traffic was light, but the day was very hot. I stopped at the Rockin Riddle Rock Shop in Hanksville, and spent some time chatting with Cathy, the owner. The shop had been closed for many years, and just after she opened it up again a few years ago I had stopped in. She said she got through the Covid shutdown OK, and I was happy to see it. In Hanksville I got gas and a juice drink at the Hollow Mountain store and then went south on UT 95 for 125 miles to US 191, where I went south for another 25 miles to Bluff, where I’m staying at the Bluff Gardens cabins.
Dinner was at Duke’s Desert Rose Inn at the other side of town.
When I had the bike serviced before I left I asked the service advisor about the rear tire, and he said it would be good for my planned trip of 1600 miles. However, I’ve added at least another thousand miles, and the weather has been very hot and I began to worry about the rear tire. Based on the rate of wear since the beginning of the trip, the tire would be down to the wear bars by the time I reached San Francisco, but I’d be thinking about the tire the whole way. So, this afternoon I called Zion Harley Davidson in Washington, Utah (near St. George) and they can put a new tire on if I get there by 2 PM tomorrow. I plan to leave by 7. (342 miles)
(Saturday, July 23, 2022) After a cup of coffee and a Clif bar I was on the road a little after 7 and it was a pleasant 70-75 degrees, so I wore my light gloves, no jacket liner, but closed the jacket vents. I rode a few miles south on US 191, then went southwest on US 163 through Monument Valley. Between Mexican Hat and Monument Pass is “Forrest Gump Hill”, so called because it was featured in the movie.
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I arrived in Kayenta a little after eight and stopped at a McDonald’s for coffee and an Egg McMuffin, which was quick. I unzipped the jacket vents and rode west on 160 to AZ 98, which is a shortcut to Page, where I stopped for gas. From Page I rode 89 North (actually at that point it is going west) to Kanab, went south for a few miles to Freedonia, and then west on AZ 389, which becomes UT 59 in Utah. Near St. George I followed the phone GPS to the Harley dealer, where I arrived about ten after 1. The service advisor, Chantal, measured the tread on the rear tire at 3/32, which is just 1/32 above replacement time. Probably good for the thousand miles to home, but I’d feel better with fresh rubber, and they had a Metzler Cruisetec in the correct size. Three and half hours later I was back on the road. To be fair they had another traveler come in whom they were taking care of, so that put them behind schedule. Chantal was apologetic, but I said not to worry - I was just going as far as Cedar City.
The technician took the bike out for a road test, I loaded it up, and I headed north on I-15. I’d planned to wait until Cedar City, just 45 miles away, to get gas, but the low fuel light came on just a few miles north of St. George and at the 80 mph speed limit the reserve countdown was moving rapidly. I stopped in Kanarraville at a Shell, and arrived at the Baymont in downtown Cedar City at 5:30. Dinner was next door, at The Brick House, and I walked around for a little bit after dinner, but Cedar City is sprawled out and there isn’t that much there. (361 miles)
(Sunday, July 24, 2022) The room at the Baymont was a bit tired, but the motel breakfast was OK if basic - scrambled eggs, sausage, toast, and yoghurt. This was going to be a short day, so there was no rush, but I was still on the road at 8:15 under an overcast sky. I went west on UT 56 which goes by the north I-15 exit and about a half dozen gas stations, franchise fast food places, and motels. Cedar City is at 5800 feet and 56 climbed up over a couple of 6000 foot summits. There were short rain showers in a few places and after 60 miles I was in Nevada, where the road became NV 319 and climbed over Panaca Summit (6735 feet) and there was another short shower. The descent into Panaca was an opportunity to wear in the new rear tire on the curvy road. At the intersection of US 93 in Panaca I stopped at a Shell station for gas, and talked for awhile with a BMW R1250RT rider who was going to Ely to meet a friend - just out for a Sunday ride from Las Vegas.
Since I was in no hurry I took a short detour to the town of Pioche. It reminded me of Jerome in Arizona since it is built on the side of a hill, but it doesn’t have the art galleries and crystal shops. Like Jerome it was probably a mining town in its early days.
Back on US 93 and heading north the sky continued to be overcast, which worked to my advantage because the temperatures were reasonable. In another 60 miles I connected with US 50, turned left, and soon was in Ely, where I stopped for gas and snack and coffee break. I was killing time, so I rode around Ely a bit looking for a coffee shop, and finally stopped at Visitors’ Center where a very nice lady directed me to the Taproot Coffee and snack shop where I had a bagel and coffee. (There was no sign with the name of the place on the front of the building, just a sign in the window advertising ice cream and snacks.) While I was having my snack the excursion train went by - I think that it goes from Ely to Ruth, which isn’t far away. Back on US 50 I went over three summits (7500 feet and 6500 feet) and a couple of curvy sections and retraced my route of a few days ago to Eureka, where I didn’t stop. I hit another brief shower before I reached the curvy section of road that goes by Bob Scott campground, climbs over the Austin Summit (7400 feet) and quickly descends into Austin, where I’m spending the night at the Cozy Mountain motel.
Austin keeps trying, but it just can’t seem to get going. The Toiyabe Cafe is permanently closed now, the International no longer serves food - just bakery items, snacks, and drinks. The Owl Club bar (I wonder if it is related to the Owl Club in Eureka?) has chicken fried steak. There is a food truck at Champs gas station and convenience store, which is where I plan to eat tonight.
The annex of the Lincoln Motel, permanently closed.
Bench in front of the Cozy Mountain Motel office.
Sidewalk in front of the Silver State Saloon. Yes, that is horse poop. I’ve never seen the place open, although it looks quite nice from the outside.
Sarah, the woman who owns the Cozy Mountain, has been improving the place. My room is quite small, but the bathroom fixtures are new, the bed is comfortable, and the air conditioner works well - what more can you ask for. There is also a microwave and a five foot tall refrigerator, although I doubt that either one gets much use. She has also opened a restaurant in town, Grandma’s, which was unfortunately closed that Sunday. Shortly after I moved into my room a couple from Tiburon (north of San Francisco) rode in on two bikes, and in a half hour we will walk to the food truck and pick up dinner. (360 miles)
(Monday, July 25, 2022) The cheeseburger from Champ’s food truck was good, and we ate on a table outside of the rooms and talked, mostly about motorcycles. Well, I’m afraid that I did most of the talking - once the subject turns to motorcycles, I can’t shut up. Just ask Carol.
A rooster in the flock of chickens across the road had me up before my alarm went off at 6. I walked to Champ’s and picked up a coffee to go with my Clif bar, and that would get me to Fallon and a real breakfast. LaMonique and Karl were also up, and we said our goodbyes in the parking lot - they were headed east. LaMonique rides a BMW R1250GS, and Karl is on a Triumph Tiger. I was on the road at 7:45 and enjoyed the temporary cool weather (about 70 degrees), the smell of sage, the sun at my back, and very few other vehicles on the road. However, about 50 miles from Austin I realized that I’d forgotten to turn in my room key.
There are a few low passes and twisty sections, but then the road straightens out and begins a gradual descent to Fallon, which is at 4000 feet. After 110 miles I pulled in front of Ana’s Cafe (recommended by Karl and LaMonique). Breakfast was good, as was the coffee, and right across the street was a post office where I Priority mailed the key to Room 6 back to its home at the Cozy Mountain Motel.
A few miles outside of Fallon US 50 turns to go to Carson City. The road is divided for 30 miles or so, then becomes a four-lane with no median and the speed limit drops. The day was heating up, and traffic increased as I approached Carson City. I ignored the bypass around downtown and turned left in front of Heidi’s restaurant onto US 395 south, by the State Capitol, the Ormsby House, a nice park, and then downtown is over and the slog to Minden begins - various big box stores, chain eateries, etc. In Fallon here was a definite haze in the air, but only the slightest smoke smell. In Carson City the smell was stronger, and the haze more pronounced - all this from a large fire south of Yosemite. In Minden I turned onto 88 (state road - same number in Nevada as California). There was traffic, but all moving at or above the speed limit. Shortly after entering California the road began its ascent to Carson Pass (8573 feet). It is an easy pass with no real twisty sections and several passing lanes leading up to it. For the most part I was content to move along with the rest of the vehicles, since they were all slightly over the speed limit. There were half a dozen one-lane sections due to road construction, but if we had to wait it was a short wait. This did bunch up the cars, though, so gradually there was a long line of vehicles headed in the same direction.
I rode by Silver Lake and then Kirkwood (where Carol has skied), there were a few interesting curvy sections, but the scenic views of the Sierra were obscured by smoke haze. In Jackson 88 goes north for a bit and near Sutter Creek I could see a large column of black smoke - it looked like a fire had just started. The ride became slower and with more traffic as I went through the farm towns in the valley, and eventually I was in Stockton, which is never a pleasure. I rode through town and onto I-5 south, where there was an inexplicable traffic jam. I split lanes for a few miles, a bit of a challenge because that section of I-5 is old with slightly narrower lanes that the newer construction. There was also a lot of truck traffic. I exited onto the I-205 bypass to Tracy, where I got gas and a juice and it was 95 degrees. Back on the bike it was 75 mph over Altamont pass and into Livermore and then in Castro Valley I exited onto 238 which connects to I-880 south in Hayward. After a few miles I exited for the San Mateo Bridge and crossed over the bay to Foster City, where I got on 101 north, which, surprisingly, had only medium traffic for 4:30 in the afternoon on a Monday. Maybe that is the new normal, although the traffic on I-580 heading away from the Bay Area had been very heavy. It became cooler the closer I got to home, and foggier, and before I even punched in the code to open the garage door it went up and there were Carol and Walter, who jumped all over me (Walter, not Carol).
I unloaded the bike and put it in the garage, then unpacked, took a shower, started a laundry, and had dinner. (432 miles)
Thoughts: The Harley worked out quite well for a medium trip (2244 miles), and it was comfortable enough on a 400 mile day with few breaks. The huge torque of the big engine means that it is only turning 2500 rpm at 70 mph, and about 2900 rpm at 80, which makes for a very relaxing ride. It was also poised on the tightest curves of the trip, which were on US 50 east of Austin, NV. The bike has considerable bulk - 680 pounds (plus another 50 pounds with my gear on it), and hefting it off its side stand (Harley calls it a Jiffy Stand) takes some effort, as does pushing it into the tighter corners. The small cowling over headlight deflects some of the wind blast off my chest, but of course not as much as a proper windscreen would do.
The panniers weighed 16 pounds and 20 pounds, and I was happy with their ease of use and their capacity, even though I didn’t use the extension zipper. The tail bag (by Nelson-Riggs) is easily accessible and holds a surprising amount of stuff (11 pounds) and that is where I kept my maps, extra gloves, sunscreen, tools, iPad, etc., etc.
Unfortunately, my new Schuberth C4 Pro helmet did not work out. I thought that it would break in, but it remains tight across my forehead and cheeks. The volume of the built in speakers is too low and at speeds over 50 mph I can’t hear the GPS in my phone. It is also tight over the ears, which causes pain in my left ear after an hour or so. I spent some time whittling away at the form-fitted ear plug for that ear to no avail, and I eventually used a single use foam ear plug, which was better but still annoying after a couple of hours. I will take the helmet to the dealer to see if they can do anything and if not I’ll probably go back to a Shoei helmet.
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